Community support: Computer building mega thread

[Failhorse]

Per other thread. Thought we should create a mega-thread for those looking or needing advice on building a computer. Computer hardware is incredibly easy to install. There is no reason you should ever buy a pre-built computer. You waste money, and get shoddy hardware in most cases. This first thread will be expanded upon as others toss us their info.

This is based on advice for those building a mid-tier gaming PC. We are not talking about liquid cooling or expansive bullshit that makes the sand, dirt, and muzzle fire look better on screen.

Basics:
A build breaks down into 8 basic pieces.
Case, motherboard (mobo,) CPU, PSU (power supply,) GPU (graphics card,) Hard drive, RAM, and some sort of disc drive.

Additional things that may be necessary, based on your build could be: Additional or upgraded cooling/fans, extra drives, and extra inputs. Though picking the right mobo should negate needing any additional USB or firewire inputs.

You generally also have to buy your OS separately.

______________________________________________________________________________________

Sites like newegg.com and tigerdirect.com generally offer combo deals. When piecing your box together, be open to adjusting the details. Doing so can save some big cash. Especially things like the GPU, Mobo, and RAM.

Things to consider:

:Case:
I refuse to talk about this. You people with your fancy bling boxes. I have 25k LEDs in mine, but had to buy 6 fans to keep it from shutting down.
expand on this section

:Mobo:
expand on this section

:CPU:
expand on this section

:PSU:
The power supply is generally overlooked or under valued. A quality PSU is very important. You need to read up on your choices and look at the continuous power rating. That's very important. A mid level gaming PC with a mid-high tier GPU will use anywhere between 350-450 watts. You want headroom. Generally 40-80% more. I would recommend never buying anything less than 550, 600-700 being the sweet spot.
expand on this section

:RAM:
RAM, to me, seems like a giant industry inside joke. Especially with DDR3 RAM. Prices for near-same spec product can be all over the place. In reality there are very few microchip makers. You pay a premium for a fancy looking heat sink and a name. Many of the chips come from Japan. So you can get massive price fluctuations based on what is happening there. Problem with a nuclear reactor? Prices go 4x overnight. Base your buying experience on what combo deal best works, what you actually need, and the support the supplier gives after the sale. The 2x the price because: heat sink, is dumb.
expand on this section

:GPU:
The GPU is probably most important. As we play Source games, and 1 upgrade can kill your FPS. For what seems like no particular reason. Much like RAM, you have a lot of licensed product. The HDBlahfuck can very in price based on manufacture. And the heatsink/case the GPU actually sits in dictates the end price. The difference this time, is the heat sink and case matter. Do not. Ever! Buy additional cooling for a GPU. If you are doing that, you picked the wrong GPU.
expand on this section

:Optical Disc:
if you spend more than $20 dollars, you are doing it wrong.
expand on this section

:Hard Drive:
I highly suggest, if running an SSD (solid state drive) to also purchase a traditional drive. Or a traditional back up drive. I also do not suggest running ancillary programs or files from a SSD. Realistically you only need the OS, Steam, and other games on the SSD drive. Pictures, movies, and your porn stash can stay elsewhere. It's like putting a Porsche engine into a Saturn. It will never all fit, and it takes up A LOT of space. After you outspend your budget so you get a large enough drive, to hold your porn collection. You'll realize it loads just as fast on a traditional drive.
expand on this section

Other useful info down here.
A good writeup on dealing with heat.
whatever else you can think of. Will add as necessary.

[Shotgunbob]

CPU depends on user but the Phenom II Dual Cores still work incredibly well IMO, I'm running the 3.2GHz version. The black editions can OC to about 4GHz without issue, and if you get lucky you can unlock both of the deactivated cores making it a quad. The only one you can buy is the 560 which is the 3.3GHz model and it's fairly cheap ($80-$95)

The 3.4GHz Quad-core FX processor is also a great cost to performance CPU, it runs at about $100-$110 on newegg.


Also with RAM G.Skill DDR3 is typically the cheapest brand, but still shop around for the cheapest deal.

[gewf]

My 3.6ghz quad core was only 110 from newegg.

one thing I will say about my build, get a different motherboard. If there's a way to install an aftermarket heatsink on it, It's beyond my knowledge. screws were tighter than the virgin mary.

so I got the 700w corsair PS and it makes an annoying chirp sound all the damn time... has good reviews but I guess I got a faulty part.

[Shotgunbob]

My 3.6ghz quad core was only 110 from newegg.

one thing I will say about my build, get a different motherboard. If there's a way to install an aftermarket heatsink on it, It's beyond my knowledge. screws were tighter than the virgin mary.

so I got the 700w corsair PS and it makes an annoying chirp sound all the damn time... has good reviews but I guess I got a faulty part.

I used the stock on mine, but don't all AMD mounted fans/heatsinks use that latch/socket on the motherboard rather than screws?

[Sundaybrawl]

There are two other websites I believe have some decent prices, although since I'm in Canada the prices are different. ncix.com and directcanada.com, ncix is in America while the other one, if you haven't figured it out yet, is not, duh.

I'm not sure about combos however. I bought my PC from ncix for a little around $1,300, a bit much but satisfied. directcanada some pretty cheap prices for some of the same stuff on ncix, but different selection, I don't think as much as other sites.

[GoDM1N]

[Failhorse]

Is anyone going to contribute?

[VoltySquirrel]

Is anyone going to contribute?

I wish I could, but I only have a basic understanding of what the components of a computer are, let alone how to put those components together into a working machine. But I'm learning.

[GoDM1N]

Is anyone going to contribute?

Heres my thoughts on computer components

:Case:
A good case will last you multiple builds, will be easier to work with as well as keep your computer running cooler (via cable management and fan options). Make sure the case has a bottom mounted PSU, lots of room, pass throughs for your cables and lots of places to mount fans. This doesn't mean you need to go out and spend $300 on a case, there are many options within the $100 range.


:Mobo:
Theres not really a lot to say about mobos in my opinion for this type of guide. I suggest getting something that's a full ATX size and has a upgrade path (ex. 4 ram slots, 2 PCi-e slots etc) that priced around $100-150


:CPU:
I feel the CPU isn't as important as people generally say it is when it comes to gaming. A lot of people will go out and buy the "best" CPUs on the market, but when it comes to gaming they're equal with slower models. Sometimes you even end up with fewer FPS when buying the higher end CPUs. The reason for this is games don't take advantage of the technology that makes those CPUs faster in the type of applications they were made for. When they cant rely on that technology it hinders their performance in applications that don't use them to their fullest. Truth is most games don't even use more than two of your CPUs cores, and most games are also GPU dependent. So don't blow all your budget on the best CPU you can buy and expect it to run faster.

:PSU:
When it comes to a PSU personally I just go straight to the Corsair section. They're good PSU's, they're all 80PLUS Certified and they have any size you need at good prices. I suggest something around 750watts. If you want to upgrade later with a 2nd GPU you have the room to do so and the price difference between a 550w and a 750w is about $20 so its not going to break the bank.


:RAM:
When buying ram you don't need to do anything crazy really. You WILL NOT see a difference between 4gb of ram or 32gb of ram in a video game. I suggest buying whatever has the lowest latency with the highest speed your mobo supports. A important note is if you buy a motherboard with the intel 1155 socket the ram must have a voltage of 1.5 or lower or it won't work.

:GPU:
This is the most important part of a gaming computer, it is where most of your budget will go because it is where you'll see the most performance the more you spend unlike RAM or a CPU. A general rule of thumb to use is you want to spend 50-100% more on the GPU than you did on your CPU to get the most bang for your buck.

:Optical Disc:
Buy a external and pull it out whenever you feel like playing older games that aren't on a digital downloader of some sort or to install windows. I haven't used a optical drive in god knows how long, I think the last time I used one was for installing windows 7 actually.

:Hard Drive:
SSD drives have come down in price so much if you're making a computer today and don't buy one somethings wrong with you. Buy a good SSD thats around 64gb-128gb and then buy a normal 1tb hard drive of at least 7200rpm for storage.

[GoDM1N]

CPU depends on user but the Phenom II Dual Cores still work incredibly well IMO.

The reason for this is because generally the fewer cores a CPU has the more effective each core is. Meaning in games like TF2 where the game isn't optimized for multicore CPUs it isn't able to take advantage of all the power a quad CPU has to offer. This can confuse some people because they look at benchmarks showing that the quad was much faster in something like a encoding test or a synthetic benchmarking program that was made to test every inch of the CPU.

If you look here you'll see a AMD PII 555 vs a intel 2500k. The quad beats the dual core everywhere until you get to games. With the exception of Farcry which was made to run on quads the two cpus are very close. The closest being Fallout3 with only a 4 FPS difference. If you were to calculate that out you'd be paying something around $25 for each extra frame when playing Fallout. To add to this, if you were to buy a i7 975 EXTREME, you'd be paying something along the lines of $250 for each extra frame, and if you compare it to the 2500k, you'd be paying $800 for LESS performance.

This all said today it is better to get a quad because more games are being optimized for multicore as quads become more mainstream. However it generally is better to stick to i5's. Atm they're the best option for gamers unless you're building a APU based system which is a whole nother topic.

[Hatred]

i'll contibute i guess ... lulz ... im also gonna add an PCI addons part cause they are important too ... also your comp is only as good as its slowest component in most cases

:Case: when i look for a case i look for a few things
1. - i look for a case that has enough room for what i have then a little bit more room cause i know imma add something later ;p
2. - amount of fans and there placement ... most ppl just think OMG it has 50 fans its the best (but not always) for best cooling you need to have equal positive and negitive air pressure and propperly orented fans (blowing in or out) . airflow should be brought in at the bottom front and pushed to the back top. most of the heat is produced from the CPU and PSU and those are normally located at the top so it makes sence to not have all that hot air going through your comp to get out ... right ? most ppl will argue about side fans and to each there own, but i want to say most side fans just disrupt airflow ... not all side fans will it's just those GIANT side fans or multiple for the most part ... and leave the filters on ppl they are for more than just keeping dust out they also help regulate the amount of air comming in to your comp ...
3. - is material ... all i want to say is a good material will also help reduce you system temp ... look for something that has good heat transferrance but isnt to much ... you want it to be able to lose heat pretty good but not to good or its just gonna absorb heat real quick also ... aluminum is cheap and pretty good and there are alot of different plastics that do even better but thats something you'll have to google lulz ...


:Mobo: ah a mother board i prefer ASUS but gigabyte are incredible also couple small things quick then just touch some other factors ... i prefer to have
small things -
independant ethernet and sound period (i'll get to this more in my PCI addons part) but what i look for is pretty simple
fan connector and other cable connector locations as to prevent tangleing ... lulz ... im obsessive about clean cords ...
the amount of PCI and PCI-E connectors and there orrientation as you will prolly have to connect cords inside and out to these things ...
that the north and south bridge have proper heat sync's and are actually on there respective sides lulz you would be suprized ...
bigger things -
first i want to point out to actually take the time to find out what kind of metal is used in the pathways ... i cant point out how often sub producers will add zync and other ferrous metals to the copper (if your lucky there will be some gold in the ram and CPU chipset but dont hold your breath) copper and gold are the MOST conductive metals we know of to date and adding those other metal lowers the rate that the good metals can pass the electricity through ... look into it ... you can make a cake from poop but its not gonna taste very good ...
the other big thing is that its the right chipset ... yes i've been that stupid just double check lulz


:CPU: first godmin said most of it so i wont get to far into this cause he is right ... lulz ... AMD is my fav but intel is great also ...

SO ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS !!! worry more about all the little factors like cash size and bus speed and so on cause these days you can always over clock the clock speed to were you want it


SU: failhorse said it all already dont cheep out on this or you will regret it down the road


:RAM: godmin and failhorse said it all again just make sure you have enough and your good


:GPU: my opinion is pretty simple ... you dont need a 600$ card to get the best performance ... if your like me and play alot of rpg's (not mmo thank god) and source engine games you realy dont need the newest model. but dont under do it ... look up and compare

2 cards has its pro's and cons image quality, stability, performance it all depends on what your looking for
.

:Optical Disc:
dvd burner 20$
blu-ray 40$
enough said

:Hard Drive: ahhh HD's alright time for another rant ... your HD is prolly the slowest part in your comp (except SSD's they are incredibly fast) so i recommend you get a SSD for you windows and installed games and for stuff thats not so important the older kind ... remember when all games were on cartridge and there was no such thing as loading !!! then sony fucked that for us with the PS1 ... well thats about the difference between the 2 kinds ... no a SSD doesnt make stuff instant to much data for that, but you'll deiffinently see the performance increase


CI addons: now most ppl are gonna say well it comes with the MB and your right ... if you dont mind eating crap every day ;O
these are the things that realy help with your gaming exp ... integrated hardware sucks would you use the built in graphics to play hell no so why would you put your other sences through that

extra sound card Creative titanium or whatever 50$ and you can realy tell the difference it's something that only you can find out by hearing it ... do it its real good. crisp and clear

a good ethernet card 40$ after tax ... but why spend $40 bucks on it its part of the MB ... well dont complain about to your Internet being slow and blame your ISP when its cause your adaptor sucks ... that aside all this does is make your service much more consistant through less packet loss and stupid other IT stuff i dont understand past what i said ..

there i hope it helps

there i contributed what i could some parts maybe a little to much ... but that

[gewf]

one thing I will say
buy a modular power supply. it's night and day with cable management.

[VoltySquirrel]

So, on any of the number of sites that sell computer parts like Newegg and TigerDirect, is there a feature where, when buying the parts you want that will keep a checklist for what you need and haven't picked yet when building a new PC? I only ask because I'd hate to buy all the shit to make the computer, only to find out I missed out on a crucial part.

[GoDM1N]

So, on any of the number of sites that sell computer parts like Newegg and TigerDirect, is there a feature where, when buying the parts you want that will keep a checklist for what you need and haven't picked yet when building a new PC? I only ask because I'd hate to buy all the shit to make the computer, only to find out I missed out on a crucial part.

http://pcpartpicker.com/

[VoltySquirrel]

So, on any of the number of sites that sell computer parts like Newegg and TigerDirect, is there a feature where, when buying the parts you want that will keep a checklist for what you need and haven't picked yet when building a new PC? I only ask because I'd hate to buy all the shit to make the computer, only to find out I missed out on a crucial part.

http://pcpartpicker.com/

Thanks.

[GoDM1N]

So, on any of the number of sites that sell computer parts like Newegg and TigerDirect, is there a feature where, when buying the parts you want that will keep a checklist for what you need and haven't picked yet when building a new PC? I only ask because I'd hate to buy all the shit to make the computer, only to find out I missed out on a crucial part.

http://pcpartpicker.com/

Thanks.

Also I know this should be obvious, but you don't need everything on that list. I'm a huge believer in saving as much as you can from your previous PC and I've had some of my HDDs for a few years now and some have passed through at least 3-4 PCs. The PSU is another good thing to save, my Corsair TX750 has crossed between 3 cases itself. If I were to upgrade right now I'd only have (or want) to go for the key parts, that being the CPU, GPU, RAM and Mobo. If you can get good enough parts that can be easily cannibalized (these parts being the PSU, Keyboard, Mouse, Monitor(s), HDDs, Case, Optical Drive, Sound Card, CPU Cooler and Operating System) upgrading will be MUCH cheaper when it comes time to. I generally do a full upgrade of the CPU, GPU, RAM and Mobo once a year with the mid-high end components, this said I hit gold the last Mobo and CPU I went with and seen no reason to upgrade atm. I'm pushing between 2-3 years with them atm and I just keep upgrading the GPU as I go.

[VoltySquirrel]

Also I know this should be obvious, but you don't need everything on that list. I'm a huge believer in saving as much as you can from your previous PC and I've had some of my HDDs for a few years now and some have passed through at least 3-4 PCs. The PSU is another good thing to save, my Corsair TX750 has crossed between 3 cases itself. If I were to upgrade right now I'd only have (or want) to go for the key parts, that being the CPU, GPU, RAM and Mobo. If you can get good enough parts that can be easily cannibalized (these parts being the PSU, Keyboard, Mouse, Monitor(s), HDDs, Case, Optical Drive, Sound Card, CPU Cooler and Operating System) upgrading will be MUCH cheaper when it comes time to. I generally do a full upgrade of the CPU, GPU, RAM and Mobo once a year with the mid-high end components, this said I hit gold the last Mobo and CPU I went with and seen no reason to upgrade atm. I'm pushing between 2-3 years with them atm and I just keep upgrading the GPU as I go.

Well, yeah, duh. However, if and when I upgrade my PC setup, it'll be mostly new stuff, since a majority of the components in my current pc are severely outdated. Even the sound card is pretty eh. Most likely, I'd only keep my current hard drive as a backup drive and of course, my monitor and mouse/keyboard. Everything else needs to be replaced.

[Laerai]

Just throwing this out there, if you have a Micro Center near you, they have absolutely ridiculous deals on Processor+Mobo combos. You can save around ~$20-100 vs. Newegg, depending on what you buy. For example, the i5-3570k and the AsRock Z77 Extreme4 are $270 vs $360 on Newegg.

As far as I know the deal doesn't show up unless you add the stuff to cart, so take note.

Otherwise, Newegg is probably the best site for everything else.

[Beartato]

PC Part Picker takes MicroCenter deals into account (as well as other pick-up-only deals) if you enter your zip code and a radius in. I saw that MC had my mobo and CPU for about $40 under NewEgg, but the nearest one was about three hours away.

[Balubish]

Me so happy! Ordered an upgrade today. For about 1200$

Case: Antec P280

Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V PRO
Also a nice new thing I haven't used but will definitly use Is Wi-Fi Go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRZT63MXbic

And a might be useful info for myself on this motherboard Is an overclocking demo video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7jwCe0QXT0

Another nice tweak program with It Is the fan control program. If your not sure were to put the fan cables on the motherboard It's ok. U can use Fan Expert 2 For an example choose if you want only to have a intake fan on,
all fans on full speed or autospeed etc. Also change In the software wich fan that are placed where. Say you have accedently mixed the connected front intake fan with the top fan on the motherboard, u can change them in the software so
the motherboard knows what fan to turn off depending on your liking or etc. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk5cboAknYM

Memmory: Corsair Vengeance Low Profile 4x4GB DDR3 16GB total

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K

CPU Watercooling: Corsair Hydro H80i

GPU: That I bought last year and keeping it for now is an Ati Radeon HD6770 1GB GDDR5

Will suck paying for it but nice with an upgrade. And hopefully be able to play games like Planetside 2 now with higher graphics without lag than now on LOW

[Balubish]

This is my old Rat nest, I will provide building pics on the new PC build next week and do a step by step build for u who haven't build your own pc yet. So have something to go on and also If the admins are ok with It. So lets see how It goes.

Aslo the case I've ordered will let me have less cable in the front as u can see on this horrifying thing and lay the cables behind the motherboard.

BTW If u think my typing Is wrong as hell I hope u will understand anyway what I meen, english is my second language so...

[Beartato]

I don't think I ever posted what I got sooooo here's what I got:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($199.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($130.71 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1082.58
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-16 15:54 EDT-0400)

I got most of it during the Black Friday - Cyber Monday deals so it was about $200 cheaper than it is now. I still got to get a better monitor. Right now I got a 14.5" LCD monitor and a 16.7" LCD monitor. The first is a cheap TV and the second is a 10-year old desktop monitor that only accepts VGA input.

[Balubish]

I don't think I ever posted what I got sooooo here's what I got:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus V Gene Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($199.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($130.71 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1082.58
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-16 15:54 EDT-0400)

I got most of it during the Black Friday - Cyber Monday deals so it was about $200 cheaper than it is now. I still got to get a better monitor. Right now I got a 14.5" LCD monitor and a 16.7" LCD monitor. The first is a cheap TV and the second is a 10-year old desktop monitor that only accepts VGA input.

Very nice kit

[Balubish]

Me so happy! Ordered an upgrade today. For about 1200$

Case: Antec P280

Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V PRO
Also a nice new thing I haven't used but will definitly use Is Wi-Fi Go http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRZT63MXbic

And a might be useful info for myself on this motherboard Is an overclocking demo video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7jwCe0QXT0

Another nice tweak program with It Is the fan control program. If your not sure were to put the fan cables on the motherboard It's ok. U can use Fan Expert 2 For an example choose if you want only to have a intake fan on,
all fans on full speed or autospeed etc. Also change In the software wich fan that are placed where. Say you have accedently mixed the connected front intake fan with the top fan on the motherboard, u can change them in the software so
the motherboard knows what fan to turn off depending on your liking or etc. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk5cboAknYM

Memmory: Corsair Vengeance Low Profile 4x4GB DDR3 16GB total

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K

CPU Watercooling: Corsair Hydro H80i

GPU: That I bought last year and keeping it for now is an Ati Radeon HD6770 1GB GDDR5

Will suck paying for it but nice with an upgrade. And hopefully be able to play games like Planetside 2 now with higher graphics without lag than now on LOW

So fucking pissed off! Waited about 1,5 weeks for my stuff cause the watercooling was not In stock, then they send me the wrong CPU and Motherboard. So now I bet I'll have to wait the same time again. Holyshit Im pissed off!!!

[Balubish]

Ok here we start the build for dummies, that includes me but I've done It a couple of times. I did get all my stuff today but wrong fucking motherboard and CPU so Im a bit But well well lets start with some of It and the basics. The rest will be posted as soon I can continue.



This is the CPU cooler. I've chosen a Corsair H80i model with a closed watersystem. Will explain more on how to mount it furthur ahead when I get the motherboard and CPU.

[Balubish]

[Balubish]

not back peace,back piece? Sorry I'll bet there will be many wrong spelling parts lol. But Im from Sweden and I just dont give a rats ass about It. Cause English is my second language. Im just here to be nice and help.


Now I know what that in the top right is. Inside the case I will use a old power connectector into a slot. And those small dots are for case fan speeds fast or slow. So I can choose myself for silent with slow fan speed and airflow or fast a bit more sound and huge airflow.

Damn I spell like crap In a hurry LOL. Well If u have no clue wtf Im talking about while following my Instructions, send me a message or contact a translater

To be continued....

[Balubish]

Dont forget to mount this back cover for the connections, before u mount the motherboard, just like I did lol.

[Balubish]

Connect all the powersuply and front panel connections to the motherboard.

[Balubish]

[Balubish]

[Balubish]

[Balubish]

[Balubish]

I just want to add some info here. I don't like AMD cpu's cause of lesser calculations than Intel. With that said sure prices are much higher on Intel than AMD and u should only buy what u can afford or are planning to spend or what purpose you are using your PC. Only gaming, AMD works fine I think, cheap and good performance for the price of it. Are you more like me that really want that extra boost in your PC Intel is your choice.

And now here is a good example, sure before u answer the thread or something there are a little age diffrerence, but read what I've noticed before u answer in that case.
This comparision is between my CPU 4Core 8Thread Intel VS AMD 2 CPU Opteron (Server) 12Core 12Thread.

Why u might ask. Well:

As u can see on the video I got more CPU score with 4 Cores and 8 threads than AMD's Dual CPU's and Six Core each and 6 threads each, total of 12 Cores and 12 Threads.
I like performance on my PC but this is ridicoulus. 12 Core server CPU should be better.
My CPU Points: 4C/8T "9.11" vs 12C/12T "7.95"

And want to add what I found from YouTube. Same speed as I was running with but with AMD's FX8350 but it only got 7.78 points. So yeah crap

Also I dont like Nvidia so much as u also can see, its not a new card but It's a good example. Nvidia Quadro FX5800 with 4GB still got less FPS than my cheap shit card. Sure It's from 2010 and mine from 2011 with 1GB, but cmon, even a year and with 3GB more GPU memmory it would kick my graphics cards ass.
My HD6700 FPS: 73.98 VS Quadro FX5800 45.52

Info about the PC I runned this with.

Moderboard: Asus P8Z77-V Pro
CPU: Intel i7 3770k running at 4,5Ghz
GPU: Asus ATI HD6770 GDDR5 1GB
Mem: 16GB Corsair Vengance 1600Mhz
System: Corsair F60 SSD




And this was the most I was able to push the CPU overclocking, I got noob skillz at that but well It got a bit faster.

[GoDM1N]

Stuff

First lets get this out the way, cinebench is very bias to intel. As are most benchmarking programs because intel pays to have extra code put in that makes their CPU run better. What really matters is real world performance. You can run a intel CPU through these programs that show the intel beating AMD, but in practice they're much closer.

http://news.cnet.com/8301-13924_3-20073 ... ntel-bias/


You're kinda comparing selling apples to selling oranges here, while in a apple farm. The Opteron is a server CPU, while the i7 is a editing CPU so of course it did better in a benchmark that's based around editing software. You may as well claim that your 6770 is better than any workstation card on the market because it preformed better in the Crysis benchmark. Try putting the 6770 up against another desktop card like the GTX660 and you'll have a more fair comparison. The Quadro is meant for things like CAD, and it will destroy the 6770 in that regard. There are different applications where these specialized cards/CPUs work better than your normal desktop products. This all said I'm not saying the Opteron is better or worse than the Intel Xeon. I honestly do not keep up with server CPUs because I do not use them.



As far as the 8350

[Balubish]

Haha I know we had this talk before and thanks for contributing on this topic, still u didnt read at my text and understood the concept of it.
First of all even if mine is a an i7 u can see on the picture or the clips I've made they also have Xeon, intel's server processor.

And with the clips u added is even worse than my comparission, yeah i cant spell. You are just proving my point. Intel i5 against AMD's best, cmon man!
First up u are showing a clip with an 8 core amd vs an 4 core intel, already there u failed to what Im trying to tell ppl here. Thats not a fair fight right 4 cores against 8 or am I wrong? Just like TF2 a team with 4 players against 8?
And yeah I dont belive in your point about because I choosed a to view it against a server processor. The program is built to do calculations, server processors are even faster to do that, right?!

Another clip to show u that, again 4 core Intel but i7 like I have against the AMD processor u showed with 8 core.
Still I want to point out, Im a performance freak when it comes to PC's still if u are only using ur PC for gaming only why not AMD.

_______________ 4-CORE____________________________8-CORE

And here is a list of 3D Mark 11 score with my i7 CPU and AMD 8350. On the site my CPU got 3DMark CPU Score: 8130 and my personal score for the CPU I got Score: 10864 and AMD FX8350 got 3DMark CPU Score: 6880
http://community.futuremark.com/hardware/cpu/AMD+FX-8350/review

PS: And I agree on your point on the graphics cards, I just added that cause well the test is in the program. And yeah It probably kick many cards asses in CAD.

[GoDM1N]

First up u are showing a clip with an 8 core amd vs an 4 core intel, already there u failed to what Im trying to tell ppl here.

$220/$300 for the intels vs $180 for the AMD

That's what matters ultimately.

Also with consoles going to 8 cored CPUs, PC games will also start favoring the extra cores that most games are not optimized for. So in that way the 8 cored AMD is more future proof.

Another clip to show u that, again 4 core Intel but i7 like I have against the AMD processor u showed with 8 core.

$300 vs $180 and in AC2 they were tied, in batman there was a 2 FPS difference, in BF3 they were tied, in dirt they were tied, in FC3 again only 2 FPS apart with the AMD ahead, and this is the SAME for every game they showed.

Now going back to what I said in my previous post about Cinbench. In 3D mark 11 the intel killed the AMD, sure, but as you can see it doesn't matter. Synthetic benchmarking programs do not translate in to the real world. Let me say that again. Doing well in a synthetic benchmark program, does not mean you will get better FPS in a actual video game. All getting a good score in 3DMark means, is that you got a good score in 3DMark, thats it. In real world applications (Eg, games) they're the same CPU, one just cost less money.

So please tell me why you can justify spending $120 more for a 3770k for 2 FPS (or -2 in some cases) over the AMD. To put this in to reality. In Batman, you are paying $60 for each extra frame. Can you even tell the difference between 60FPS vs 62FPS? In FC3, you are paying $120 extra, and you are getting -2 frames per second. I understand people who like performance, I do, but the two CPUs are so close you cant go wrong either way. Except you are paying extra for no reason if you go the i7 rout over the FX/i5 rout.


This all said, I will most likely go with a i5 4670k with my next build. Simply because MMOs prefer Intel over AMD generally, and that the 4670k is just a little bit better for the same cost as a 3570k which puts it ahead of the 8350 a little bit.

PS: And I agree on your point on the graphics cards, I just added that cause well the test is in the program. And yeah It probably kick many cards asses in CAD.

If you can agree to this, why cant you agree that a editing CPU is going to do better in a benchmark based on editing software than a server CPU is? Servers aren't only about raw power, power used comes in to play as well. Its meant for a totally different standard and application than the i7. Not to mention its a 2435, which is the low end AMD. And it did beat the i7 960 which cost double.


Edit: and here's another nail, this CPU came out in 2009, and its not a 12 core, its a 6.

[Balubish]

First up u are showing a clip with an 8 core amd vs an 4 core intel, already there u failed to what Im trying to tell ppl here.

$220/$300 for the intels vs $180 for the AMD: Im not talking about prices at all, im talking about calculations, rendering, processing etc. I know that AMD is cheaper, havent said it wasnt.

That's what matters ultimately. : Maybe for some.

Also with consoles going to 8 cored CPUs, PC games will also start favoring the extra cores that most games are not optimized for. So in that way the 8 cored AMD is more future proof. :Also
AMD is cheaper thats why they put in consoles not because they are better, consoles are only made for gaming, not calculations, rendering, converting videos etc.

Another clip to show u that, again 4 core Intel but i7 like I have against the AMD processor u showed with 8 core.

$300 vs $180 and in AC2 they were tied, in batman there was a 2 FPS difference, in BF3 they were tied, in dirt they were tied, in FC3 again only 2 FPS apart with the AMD ahead, and this is the SAME for every game they showed. : Yes I saw that too, but overall? And im still talking 4 core against 8. Not prices.

Now going back to what I said in my previous post about Cinbench. In 3D mark 11 the intel killed the AMD, sure, but as you can see it doesn't matter. Synthetic benchmarking programs do not translate in to the real world. Let me say that again. Doing well in a synthetic benchmark program, does not mean you will get better FPS in a actual video game. All getting a good score in 3DMark means, is that you got a good score in 3DMark, thats it. In real world applications (Eg, games) they're the same CPU, one just cost less money.
: Ofcourse it matters, not everybody only play games with their pc, and 3D mark is good program to test both CPU and GPU. And you are talking about gaming only. And for you It seems like Cinebench and 3Dmark is payed buy intel to get better scores, cmon.

So please tell me why you can justify spending $120 more for a 3770k for 2 FPS (or -2 in some cases) over the AMD. To put this in to reality. In Batman, you are paying $60 for each extra frame. Can you even tell the difference between 60FPS vs 62FPS? In FC3, you are paying $120 extra, and you are getting -2 frames per second. I understand people who like performance, I do, but the two CPUs are so close you cant go wrong either way. Except you are paying extra for no reason if you go the i7 rout over the FX/i5 rout.
: I have tried to explain that but u wont listen. Im not looking for prices here, im comparing performance all over. AMD good for gaming - Intel good for evertying you use your pc for. "AMD Cheap - Intel Not as cheap" I dont care if amd are 2 fps faster in some games. I use my pc for more than games. And I haven't said you will fail buying a AMD, but you will get less overall performance and the tests that really pisses me off over the internet is 4 core against 8 and still they have similar performance.



This all said, I will most likely go with a i5 4670k with my next build. Simply because MMOs prefer Intel over AMD generally, and that the 4670k is just a little bit better for the same cost as a 3570k which puts it ahead of the 8350 a little bit.
And do u know why MMO prefer intel yeah Calculations! Mooohaha im right again.

PS: And I agree on your point on the graphics cards, I just added that cause well the test is in the program. And yeah It probably kick many cards asses in CAD.

If you can agree to this, why cant you agree that a editing CPU is going to do better in a benchmark based on editing software than a server CPU is? Servers aren't only about raw power, power used comes in to play as well. Its meant for a totally different standard and application than the i7. Not to mention its a 2435, which is the low end AMD. And it did beat the i7 960 which cost double.


Edit: and here's another nail, this CPU came out in 2009, and its not a 12 core, its a 6.

true but it is 2pcs of 6 core and 6 thread per cpu, so 12 core and 12 threads in that PC.
I guess you wont belive this also but fuck it im putting it up here. Below, yet again calculations and what he says the 2 Xeon processors talk to eachother as one. 12Cores and 24 threads. And yes it is an extreme gaming rig with 2 Xeon processors.

[GoDM1N]

Its not that I don't believe you, its that to a gamer cinebech doesn't mean much.


Also worth noting. Two of these Xeon CPUs would cost you $4000 just for the cpus. If you really want to compare that to your average desktop fx/i5/i7 go ahead but its not relevant.

[Balubish]

Its not that I don't believe you, its that to a gamer cinebech doesn't mean much.


Also worth noting. Two of these Xeon CPUs would cost you $4000 just for the cpus. If you really want to compare that to you average desktop fx/i5/i7 go ahead but its not relevant.

Yeah to a gamer that may not mean much.
Yeah Xeon cost damn much, I would want a similar pc though

[GoDM1N]

CSn| Balubish N©©Bz: Hi Godm1n. Just wondering and want to collaborate some with u. Graphics card. What is better, 2pcs 100$ cards using crossfire/sli or a card for 200$?
CSn| Balubish N©©Bz: one card for 200 instead of 2 two cards for 100 each.
CSn| Balubish N©©Bz: Anything u know about?
CSn| Balubish N©©Bz: And how much does memory speed really do?
CSn| Balubish N©©Bz: I bought 1600Mhz 16GB to this build I did, but would say 16GB of 2400Mhz do alot better or is it pointless?


Bab asked me this but he's offline atm. I thought it would be worthwhile making a post here about it as I see these questions often.

For GPU's its always smarter to buy one powerful card vs 2 slower cards if you are building from scratch. My reasons for this is though scaling is getting better, it's not always the case and you'll get much more consistent results with a single GPU card. While you may get say 30 FPS with one card, adding a 2nd doesn't mean you'll get 60 FPS with two, you could even get worse FPS and have to disable crossfire which defeats the purpose. While using dual GPU setups you're more likely to have micro stuttering as well as driver issues. You also forfeit the ability to add another card down the line if you need to upgrade as new games come out. If however, you already own a GPU and want to upgrade it could be smarter to CrossFire/SLi it. It really depends on how well your GPU scales when adding a 2nd. There are lots of benchmarks online to find out if it'd be worth it. I suggest trying to find out if the game you want to upgrade for works well with CFX or SLi before doing it. For example Metro 2033 does do well when in Sli or CFX with a 7770. Skyrim and Crysis 2 on the other hand is a different story


Memory speed depends on what you're doing as well as capacity. For games, RAM generally doesn't matter. Differences will be minimal and having faster RAM will most likely only get you about 5ish FPS for double the price (when comparing 1600 to 2400). When it comes to capacity if you go over 8GB you'll see absolutely no difference in games. Imo stick to 8GB when building a gaming PC. If however you're doing a lot of editing and that sort of stuff RAM will make a bigger difference. RAM also matters if you are on a APU system.

Explained here

[Balubish]

Running like charm. Very quite but still get dust inside even though there are airfilters but I guess the filters aren't that sealed I guess I have to tweak that mysel. Also I wanted to show you guys the sound lvl even though the side panel is off and do alot to lower it.
With 6 case fans, 2 in front getting that coooool air inside, 2 behind the HDDs that continue sucking cool air from the front ones, 2 in the top getting all that GPU, PSU and MB heat. +2 on the CPU radiator. A total of 8 fans in low speed. Why PSU u might ask. Well the fan on it is off, cause its not running hot at all. I checked and are no airflow from it. It might only go on when I play stressful games. So the GPU gets all the power. But surfing or youtube etc, it's off. Personally I thought it was on even at low speed but no. So yeah Im happy with it.
But nvm here it is. Best regards Balubish.

Video Sound below pic. Sound more with the side panel off. I almost hear when its on that the PC is running. IRL its like hearing a soft airflow. The video doens't really tell the truth of it. I guss it's because the mic is so close.

This is how it looks since running 24/7 since April.

[GoDM1N]

Was waiting to take pics until my cooler, SSD and fans arrive, but cant wait to show it off. Cabling is a little all over the place, but I'm planning on redoing some of it once my other parts show up. Luckly I waited on getting a GPU because AMD is just announced their new ones which are right around the corner. Going to go with a R9 270x or 280x

Specs
Intel 4670k stock
ASUS Z87 Maximus VI Hero
8GB Corsair Vengeance 1600mhz
XFX 5770
Corsair AX760
WD Caviar Blue 500gb (storage)
Seagate Barracuda 160gb (Boot drive until SSD arrives)

[Balubish]

Nice build man, what Case is that? I like it, very open for good airflow. Looking forward to see more with the finishing touches .
Im also maybe gonna buy one of the new GPU's from AMD R9 series that comes. Do you know when they are gonna release them?

[GoDM1N]

Nice build man, what Case is that? I like it, very open for good airflow. Looking forward to see more with the finishing touches .
Im also maybe gonna buy one of the new GPU's from AMD R9 series that comes. Do you know when they are gonna release them?

As far as the new GPU's I was told this month at some point

[UncleTestes]

Sorry for the lack of contribution, but what are your thoughts on the Windows Experience Index? Are its results accurate? Reliable?

[Balubish]

Sorry for the lack of contribution, but what are your thoughts on the Windows Experience Index? Are its results accurate? Reliable?

I would think it is quite accurate. My last PC had 5.8 I think and now 7.3 And the reason I got that score is cause the GPU was not newest and fastest, overall I had 7.8-7.9 on everything. So I think it might be a valid.

[GoDM1N]

Sorry for the lack of contribution, but what are your thoughts on the Windows Experience Index? Are its results accurate? Reliable?

I never really consider it honestly.


My 3 year old ATi 5770 gets a 7.4 out of 7.9. A 7950 gets a 7.9, which in real world performance gets triple the amount of frames my card gets. The 7970 and 7990 also get considerably more frames than the 7950 which got a perfect score already. So if you went by the WEI you'd think the other two cards are pointless and that a 5770 isn't far off from a 7950, which isn't the case.

I believe you're planning on getting a new computer soon, right? What's your budget?

[GoDM1N]

I'm also maybe gonna buy one of the new GPU's from AMD R9 series that comes. Do you know when they are gonna release them?

They're out

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductLi ... isNodeId=1

[Balubish]

I'm also maybe gonna buy one of the new GPU's from AMD R9 series that comes. Do you know when they are gonna release them?

They're out

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductLi ... isNodeId=1

Darnit! Drinking beer and ordering shit!

Well soon I will have AMD Radeon R9 280X Gigabyte OC Windforce 3GB GDDR5 + Battlefield 4 pre ordered and also support the new mantle that are in this R9 Card

Note: Info that I found Minimum 750W or greater system power supply but I have a 650W power supply and on another site I found out that the GPU takes around 250W so for further notice, let's see how it goes with a 650W PSU. Personally I think it works and 750W is a salesmen thing. Just to make u buy new shit even though I don't need it. Hope Im right though. But 250W on the GPU should be enough to the rest of my components like the CPU maybe are at 150W OC so the rest don't take that much juice. "Holding thumbs"

And also today I made a home made pc mod to my PC with some of my fav games on the front panel. What do you guys think about it?

[WET BUTT DISEASE]

This was a build I put together to finally replace my 7 year old compy:

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1FeGc
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1FeGc/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1FeGc/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($86.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.96 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card ($175.66 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($38.42 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $698.52

I also threw in the 256GB SSD I already had, so I run games I play all the time on the SSD, and have the 2nd HDD as my Steam backlog and future DVR. For a "budget" build, it's overall pretty solid. I have it hooked up to a 1080p TV with an Xbox controller, and it works incredibly as a gaming and modern console emulation rig (Dolphin, PCSX2, etc).

The only gripes I have is that the Line-M is a bit loud - it's not the greatest build quality, but it's good where it counts. The non-modular PSU did save about 20-30 bucks, but in turn was a bitch to setup.

Going to put in a Ceton InfiniTV Tuner in hopefully in about a month or so and use it as my DVR box also.

[UncleTestes]

Hey, quick question.
Does a PCIe x1 slot on a motherboard server any special purpose? What goes in those?

[Balubish]

Hey, quick question.
Does a PCIe x1 slot on a motherboard server any special purpose? What goes in those?

Mostly soundcards, Some special Matrox and NVidia GPU's models among other things.

[WET BUTT DISEASE]

right now mine is being used as a TV tuner

also you can throw one of those solid intel wi-fi cards in there

[GoDM1N]

Also for extra sata ports, USB ports, FireWire, pretty much anything honesty that's not a gpu

[Balubish]

Also for extra sata ports, USB ports, FireWire, pretty much anything honesty that's not a gpu

So this isnt GPU's?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500299

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161354

[UncleTestes]

So pretty much a smaller version of PCIe x16. Thanks guys.

Also, I'm considering putting together a Raspberry Pi. (Not solely for Minecraft) Anyone own one or have an opinion on it?

[GoDM1N]

My 280X came in today, along with my H100



EDIT: Also, temps from stock cooler vs H100 are 50C idle to 28C idle.

[Balubish]

Really nice build Godm1n Very clean. So you did go with 280X instead I see Bet you wont regret it though hehe Im really impressed with mine.

Btw, u need to update ur drivers so it says R9 280x and not 7900

[GoDM1N]

Really nice build Godm1n Very clean. So you did go with 280X instead I see Bet you wont regret it though hehe Im really impressed with mine.

Btw, u need to update ur drivers so it says R9 280x and not 7900

Spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to run 3 monitors on it. I was told you didn't need the DP to DVi active adapter, but you do

[Balubish]

Really nice build Godm1n Very clean. So you did go with 280X instead I see Bet you wont regret it though hehe Im really impressed with mine.

Btw, u need to update ur drivers so it says R9 280x and not 7900

Spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to run 3 monitors on it. I was told you didn't need the DP to DVi active adapter, but you do

U always need adapters I have. DVI to HDMI for my Plasma tv and VGA to DVI for my desktop screen. Bet your setup is harder cause I only mirror mine so.

[CR33D]

Any guides or tutorials on how to overclock a CPU? None of the stuff of read or watched seemed to help me.

[GoDM1N]

Any guides or tutorials on how to overclock a CPU? None of the stuff of read or watched seemed to help me.

intel or AMD?

[CR33D]

Intel i5 3750K

[Balubish]

Intel i5 3750K

And I recomend using Cinebench too see if you need to up the voltage a little bit and also have one eye on your temp.
Cinebench work great that you get rendering time points on it. And say u overclock to 4.5GHz and dont move up the voltage u might get very low score on Cinebench.
Example: 4.5GHz with no voltage if standard are 1.1Volts change 7.0 and with voltage change also say from 1.3Volts including the the 4.5GHz with multiplier you get a score of 9.0 on Cinebench.
This above is just an example but you will see what ur stock voltage and mutliplier and frequency will be on your mother board.

I have it easy, on my Asus P8Z77-V Pro motherboard I have automatic overclocking software but I can tweak it some my self. But my PC is running at this numbers.
BaseClockFreqency: 103MHz Multiplier: at 46 on all cores. CPU Voltage: at 1.350 My motherboard does change it depending on what I do, It can get lower or higher. But dont go further than 1.3 before making a good temp check.
And this makes my CPU run at 4.738GHz See the voltage as an stabilizer. To much it get really hot or burn. Set it to low you cant get the performance you should be able to get. Their for Cinebench is a perfect tool to see if you get a good score if you change any voltage. Hope you understand anything of it

I just did an auto OC and got this speed but my voltage was set at 1.380Volts and also 4.845GHz but I lowered the Multiplier from 47 to 46 and lowered the voltage from 1.380 to 1.350 and almost got the same score on Cinebench 9.50 at 4.8GHz and 9.48 at this new setting.

Here are a video I made testing it not this time but u get the point.

[CR33D]

Thanks Bal, I understand most of that, but what I don't understand is how you actually overclock the CPU

Is there a special program that you run, or is there some switch that you press on the Mobo, or what? I'm a complete newbie at all of this, so go easy on me, haha.

[Balubish]

Thanks Bal, I understand most of that, but what I don't understand is how you actually overclock the CPU

Is there a special program that you run, or is there some switch that you press on the Mobo, or what? I'm a complete newbie at all of this, so go easy on me, haha.

Oh if u look at the video with Linus that I linked before this you can see how. And depending on what motherboard u have u mostly always overclock in your Bios. Do you know how to get into Bios?
To get into your bios u reboot ur PC and depending on what button is set for it to get in there mostly F1 or Del button right after bootup. Can be another one.

And look for CPU settings or similar. And see if u can find multiplier and say if it is set to 35 change it to say 38 and save and reboot it and check in windows and use for example Cinebench to see if u get a better score.

[Balubish]

Just gotta add this!

This is nice ass hell!

This Aint!

[CR33D]

Thanks Bal, I understand most of that, but what I don't understand is how you actually overclock the CPU

Is there a special program that you run, or is there some switch that you press on the Mobo, or what? I'm a complete newbie at all of this, so go easy on me, haha.

Oh if u look at the video with Linus that I linked before this you can see how. And depending on what motherboard u have u mostly always overclock in your Bios. Do you know how to get into Bios?
To get into your bios u reboot ur PC and depending on what button is set for it to get in there mostly F1 or Del button right after bootup. Can be another one.

And look for CPU settings or similar. And see if u can find multiplier and say if it is set to 35 change it to say 38 and save and reboot it and check in windows and use for example Cinebench to see if u get a better score.

Ahhh, just what I needed, thanks a lot <3!

[Balubish]

Ahhh, just what I needed, thanks a lot <3!

Good luck man and let us know about your progress.

[Balubish]

I had very little to do at work today so. And I wanted a window on my home PC, so I made one Wanna see those expensive parts. I did it with a 5mm acrylic glass. Still the same silent pc as before but now I can see my stuff too.
Gonna buy some fans later on with some lights so it shows better though but otherwise im happy with the result
And yeah I need to dust out that fucker but anyways. What do you guys think, did I do a good job with it?

[CR33D]

How much RAM do you have? 16Gb?

[Balubish]

How much RAM do you have? 16Gb?

Yeah 16GB

[Ron Swansons Stache]

Hot damn that's pretty. You did this custom? Now I see why Sweden-based Ikea does so well.

[Balubish]

Hot damn that's pretty. You did this custom? Now I see why Sweden-based Ikea does so well.

Thanks Ron Yeah i did it custom, I hade no hole in the side panel before so I wanted to see my build. It did cost 1500$ for the pc build but the case had no window, so I thought why not be able to look at it too the front I did couple months a go, have a label printer at work so made that with the games I like. And yesterday I did the sidepanel at work, had a boring day and nothing to do. Also I might do a complete watercooling loop some day but im not sure yet. Also don't have the money now.
Also Ikea has nothing do with it lol I made that shit.

[Ron Swansons Stache]

Hot damn that's pretty. You did this custom? Now I see why Sweden-based Ikea does so well.

Thanks Ron Yeah i did it custom, I hade no hole in the side panel before so I wanted to see my build. It did cost 1500$ for the pc build but the case had no window, so I thought why not be able to look at it too the front I did couple months a go, have a label printer at work so made that with the games I like. And yesterday I did the sidepanel at work, had a boring day and nothing to do. Also I might do a complete watercooling loop some day but im not sure yet. Also don't have the money now.
Also Ikea has nothing do with it lol I made that shit.

Oh wow, I didn't even notice the front, that's pretty damn awesome too.

[Balubish]

Hot damn that's pretty. You did this custom? Now I see why Sweden-based Ikea does so well.

Thanks Ron Yeah i did it custom, I hade no hole in the side panel before so I wanted to see my build. It did cost 1500$ for the pc build but the case had no window, so I thought why not be able to look at it too the front I did couple months a go, have a label printer at work so made that with the games I like. And yesterday I did the sidepanel at work, had a boring day and nothing to do. Also I might do a complete watercooling loop some day but im not sure yet. Also don't have the money now.
Also Ikea has nothing do with it lol I made that shit.

Oh wow, I didn't even notice the front, that's pretty damn awesome too.

Thanks buddy Got a front pic on the front cover on page 5 last post, can see it better on that, I do regret not having Crysis 3 that I printed instead of COD but I do like the old CoD games though.

[Beartato]

How do you end up with wiring that doesn't look like a mess? I have not figured that one out yet.

[Balubish]

How do you end up with wiring that doesn't look like a mess? I have not figured that one out yet.

Personally I think it is quite messy even though it could have been worse. Cause when I built it I was so happy I had all the new parts and wanted to fire that focker up. But will fix it in the future I think.
But for my case as u can see I have several case holes on the backplate were the motherboard are sitting. So say from your powersupply I pulled the cables thru the bottom except one yellow one u can see below the GPU that didnt reach the top of the motherboard if I would pull them behind the motherboard. So mainly pull all cables and put it behind the motherboard and only pull out so much cable that i need to reach the different parts and it will make it look more cleaner.

Here you can see from earlier in this thread when I did the build how it looks from both sides Tato


Also Godm1n did a much better work than me.

[megamoose]

I'm currently in the proces of building a computer. Here are the specs I'm hoping to get...

AMD FX-6300 Processor 6 Cores
Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 Socket AM3 AMD ATX Motherboard
8 GB (2x4GB) 1833 Ram by G.Skill X Ripjaws
Western Cavier 1 TB Blue Hard drive
Corsair 200R Case ( I do not need something really fancy)
New Keyboard and Mouse Combo (Plain keyboard and mouse by Gigabyte)
EITHER a Radeon R9 270 OR a Nvidia GTX 660 graphic card (On a small budget)
Corsair 500W Power supply

I'm on a tight budget of around $550, so I think this is a good start.

What do you guys think of this?

[CR33D]

8 GB (2x4GB) 1833 Ram by G.Skill X Ripjaws

I haven't been looking into RAM much recently, but 1.5~ years ago Ripjaws was pretty expensive. You may be able to find cheaper RAM for a better price. Also http://www.logicalincrements.com/ is pretty useful.

[megamoose]

8 GB (2x4GB) 1833 Ram by G.Skill X Ripjaws

I haven't been looking into RAM much recently, but 1.5~ years ago Ripjaws was pretty expensive. You may be able to find cheaper RAM for a better price. Also http://www.logicalincrements.com/ is pretty useful.

Luckily, the 8GB of Ram 1866* was only $68, so it really is not a big deal and also pretty cheap. But yeah, I do not think it is to expensive.

[Balubish]

8 GB (2x4GB) 1833 Ram by G.Skill X Ripjaws

I haven't been looking into RAM much recently, but 1.5~ years ago Ripjaws was pretty expensive. You may be able to find cheaper RAM for a better price. Also http://www.logicalincrements.com/ is pretty useful.

Luckily, the 8GB of Ram 1866* was only $68, so it really is not a big deal and also pretty cheap. But yeah, I do not think it is to expensive.

Just to point out, actually mem speed doesnt do that much. So you dont spend to much money on it.

[GoDM1N]

We just got done upgrading Ninjas PC (pics soon, shes too busy with thief) but she basically running the exact same thing I am at the moment. However, I gave her my R9 280X and I got to throw in a GTX 770. Long story short we planned to get a 2nd R9 280X for her PC but due to prices of the R9 280X cards going up from $300 to $500 due to bit coin mining I get to switch to a GTX 770. Seems to get almost the exact same score as the R9 280X if anyone is in the market for a $300 card and are waiting on AMD to make more R9 chips.

GTX 770



R9 280X


Keep in mind benchmarks generally side with Nvidia over AMD, so real world performance they might not be as close, still need to test that side of it.

[Balubish]

Yeah both R9 280X and the GTX 770 are basicly the same speed. Only difference that I can see is the GPU Core Clock and VRam speed.
BTW Godm1n I just found out why I couldnt overclock my gigabyte card without crashing. Probably cause overheating of the the VRM or GPU. It's weird cause it got 3 fans on it but small and useless I guess. I added a spare 120mm fan that blows under the card a slow rpm though only I had. But now I could overclock my GPU Core some. Mem speed seemed to just make it worse for me. Here is the result. Maybe I should buy a universal waterblock and 2pcs 80mm fans and mount them somehow too cool the VRM's etc.
R9 280X

GTX 780

[Balubish]

This is my PC at this point. The build on the watercooling loop thread will be added more content to that. Files are so big so really suck to uploaded so this is kinda the future of that. Keep in mind also this is my score of everybody that made this 3D Mark test and I cant almost hear my PC. And some overclocking may still be availible on the GPU. The CPU is stable at 4.866GHz wich still is fast like a mofo. 40% faster than stock clock.





This is now my gaming PC. Cost about $3500-4000 bucks to build it over the year I have built it to have a really fast overall PC and extremly silent. The temps I have are insanely low and will add that info too the watercooling videos.
So yay Im 93% faster than all the other PC's over the whole world that made a 3D Mark benchmark. And even the test say im a bit above a High End Gaming PC. So not bad right? And hopefully I will have this for many years now and be able to do some minor upgrades like hardrives etc.

[Ron Swansons Stache]

This is my PC at this point. The build on the watercooling loop thread will be added more content to that. Files are so big so really suck to uploaded so this is kinda the future of that. Keep in mind also this is my score of everybody that made this 3D Mark test and I cant almost hear my PC. And some overclocking may still be availible on the GPU. The CPU is stable at 4.866GHz wich still is fast like a mofo. 40% faster than stock clock.





This is now my gaming PC. Cost about $3500-4000 bucks to build it over the year I have built it to have a really fast overall PC and extremly silent. The temps I have are insanely low and will add that info too the watercooling videos.
So yay Im 93% faster than all the other PC's over the whole world that made a 3D Mark benchmark. And even the test say im a bit above a High End Gaming PC. So not bad right? And hopefully I will have this for many years now and be able to do some minor upgrades like hardrives etc.

Better than 93% of all benchmarkers? 4.866 GHz? Got DAAYUM.

[Balubish]

Better than 93% of all benchmarkers? 4.866 GHz? Got DAAYUM.

Yeah 93% better than all benchmarkers with one Processor and one Graphics card

And yes Ron, im running stable at 4.866 GHz with good temps.

[Balubish]

Here are some specs and pictures of the the PC now. It's basicly finished but still need some UV Led strips to make that clear hose glow blue.
I put it up at EVGA's build off in hope of support of $1000 bucks. I will probably win, not lol. If you support it, + it All the info about volts etc on the OC's is added, well all the info that I could find that is

http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=33940

[GoDM1N]

So I'm going to start tweaking my system as well, mainly because I'm bored and I've aways wanted to demonstrate OCing and how you do or do not benefit.

So, my current system specs
i5 4670k 3.4ghz (4.4ghz OC) Cooled by Corsair H100 in push only config
ASUS DC2 GTX770 GPU 1100mhz, Memory 7000mhz (GPU 1200mhz, Memory 8000mhz OC)
Corsair Vengeance 1600mhz (haven't OCed yet)



Also as a note these were done via ASUS 4wayOP and their GPU tweak program. Nothing was a proper BIOS OC. I also just ran the Valley benchmark once for each version, also plan on running some actual game benchmarks over the weekend hopefully if I'm not too busy playing PAYDAY2.



While I'm against benchmarking programs for comparing different hardware, when comparing the same hardware in different configurations there is no bias and you get the exact same run each time. Another note is the difference between all the numbers is they're only relevant when talking about the Valley benchmark. The CPU OC might of been a lot more of a benefit in something like GTA4, so keep that in mind,

Stock


GPU only OC


CPU only OC


CPU/GPU OC

[Balubish]

So I'm going to start tweaking my system as well, mainly because I'm bored and I've aways wanted to demonstrate OCing and how you do or do not benefit.
CPU/GPU OC

Looking forward to see more info, I have found that for benchmarking you can OC the GPU more but real life games like BF4 crashes with the same OC. Hope you got an answer on that Godm1n. Help

And my OC that I found stable is GPU Clock 1188Mhz and mem 6192Mhz. I guess I can tweak a little but thats a stable clock for gaming that I have now though. And +25mV and 106% power

[GoDM1N]

Some more goods, this time BioShock Infinite


Stock
Avg: 80.309

CPU only OC
Avg: 84.370

GPU only OC
Avg: 87.795

CPU/GPU OC
Avg: 93.635

Next in line is GTA4 and ARMA 3. Possibly Skyrim as well.

[UncleTestes]

Can you guys tell me some more about overclocking? I've always been curious but never really looked into it.

Here's what I understand so far: CPUs have a rating in Hertz. Typical CPU rating is about 2 point something, sometimes 3. I don't actually know if GPUs are measured in Hertz or not but anyway. Overclocking can boost your Hertz rating. It can be controlled with software or firmware (some UEFI-compatible motherboards can control CPU overclocking from the BIOS menu) and usually can get you anywhere from an extra 100 MHz to 1 GHz. I also know that with overclocking comes a need for more cooling, and can also degrade the components faster.

What'd I miss? Thanks in advance.

[DerKrieger105]

Can you guys tell me some more about overclocking? I've always been curious but never really looked into it.

Here's what I understand so far: CPUs have a rating in Hertz. Typical CPU rating is about 2 point something, sometimes 3. I don't actually know if GPUs are measured in Hertz or not but anyway. Overclocking can boost your Hertz rating. It can be controlled with software or firmware (some UEFI-compatible motherboards can control CPU overclocking from the BIOS menu) and usually can get you anywhere from an extra 100 MHz to 1 GHz. I also know that with overclocking comes a need for more cooling, and can also degrade the components faster.

What'd I miss? Thanks in advance.

WALL OF TEXT INBOUND. TRYING TO BE AS THOROUGH AS I POSSIBLY CAN. THAT BEING SAID I GLOSSED OVER A FEW POINTS AND MAY HAVE LEFT SOMETHINGS OUT. OVERCLOCKING IS SERIOUS BUSINESS AND CAN CAUSE SEVERE SYSTEM DAMAGE IF DONE IMPROPERLY. IT ISN'T FOR NOOBIES OR PEOPLE WHO DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING. READ. RESEARCH. ASK QUESTIONS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO OVERCLOCK.

CPUs, GPUs, RAM, and even other components on the motherboard as well as interconnects like bus and hyper transports run at a specified clock speed generated by a clock generator. That speed is measured in Hz. Now a days, because components are so fast, you'll see ratings in MHz and GHz (Mega and Giga Hz. 3.5GHz= 3500 MHz) This speed is a rating of how fast a component runs and is not necessarily an indicator of how fast the component is overall or how powerful it is. That is the Megahertz Myth. Just because one CPU is rated at 3.5Ghz and one at 3.0Ghz doesn't automatically make the faster one better for a specific task.

Performance depends on a variety of factors. In CPUs/GPUs for example, performance comes down to clock speed, IPC (instructions per clock or how much work the CPU can do per tick of the cycle), architecture, # of cores and a variety of other factors. Clock speed is important though and increasing it can improve performance significantly in some tasks.

Overclocking is a great way to boost performance without buying new hardware. That being said it will make your components consume more power, produce more heat and can cause instability. If you run excessively high voltages and let your components overheat you will shorten their lifespan. However, if you keep those factors under control lifespans aren't significantly effected. Certain parts and architectures don't overclock well however even with good cooling. Overclock ability really comes down to "the silicon lottery" and getting a good part that OCs well. Some architectures like AMD's Vishera parts overclock better than other architectures like Intel's Haswell and will have more parts that win the silicon lottery. Really though it comes down to your individual part.

Let's talk about GPU overclocking first as it is easier to do. GPU OCing is quite simple and for most people is done at a software level. Many programs are available to do this and can be downloaded for free. Many are produced by the individual GPU vendor themselves (EVGA Precision X, ASUS GPUTweak, MSI Afterburner, ect.) but AMD also has their own software known as Catalyst Control. It is important to note that the vendor applications like MSI Afterburner will work with any GPU from any vendor. It doesn't matter.

GPU overclocking is down to moving a few sliders in the above mentioned applications. You can simply raise GPU and memory clock speeds, as both exist on a GPU and are controllable, and achieve an overclock. That doesn't mean you can just put the slider as high as it goes and expect the card to run that high. You need to keep heat under control and as you raise the clock speed the part will require more power You can increase this in these programs as well but you want to do it carefully. You want to use as little voltage as you can to get stability at a given speed. Eventually you will hit a wall with any part. Either it gets too hot or it just simply won't go any faster and be stable.

GPU OCing requires good cooling and non reference cards with special coolers, like Asus's DIRECTCUII unit or XFX's Double Dissipation cooler, will give you lower temperatures and more overclocking head room. They also usually have better power delivery systems which are needed for OCing.

Let's talk about memory OCing next. This one is dubious. Unless you're running an APU for gaming RAM speeds really don't matter. Run it at the speed that it is rated for. Some motherboards and CPUs will only allow you to use higher speed RAM if they themselves are overclocked. If you are using Intel no matter what speed RAM you buy it will run at 1333Mhz when you put it in. You'll need to go into the BIOS and load up the RAM's XMP (Extreme Memory Profile) profile to get it to run at its rated speed with the proper timings. Messing with the speed and timings other than setting the XMP profile isn't recommended.

CPU Overclocking is probably the most interesting and difficult and can take the longest. CPU speed is calculated by taking a fixed BCLK (Base Clock) speed and multiplying it by a number known as the multiplier. This gives you your final rated speed. For example this particular system I'm on has a BCLK of 200 Mhz and a multiplier of 14 giving me a final speed of 2800Mhz or 2.8Ghz. The multiplier will change automatically depending on CPU utilization as modern CPUs don't run at their full speed all the time to save power.
Overclocking CPUs is generally done by changing the multiplier and raising the upper limit. You can overclock by changing the BCLK or Bus speed but that usually isn't recommended as it changes speeds for other components and induces instability.

To begin overclocking you are going to need to figure out a few things. Firstly is can your CPU be overclocked at all. Intel's overclock-able parts are denoted by a "k" suffix at the end. This means they are "Unlocked." The multiplier can be changed. For example the Intel i5-4670k can be overclocked but the Intel-4670 can't. The only exception to this, I believe, is the new Pentium G3258 which has an unlocked multiplier and can be overclocked.
AMD is a bit tricky. All AMD FX series CPUs (FX-6300, 8350, 8320. 4300 ect..) have an unlocked multiplier and can be overclocked. AMD also labels such unlocked CPUs as "Black Edition" (Phenom II X4 965 BE) but also sometimes includes a k suffix like Intel does such as with the Athlon X4 760k.

Next you need to look at your motherboard. It needs to be a high quality design with a good power phase design. Usually 4+2 or better is recommended. This doesn't mean that more phases are necessarily better but more is important. Furthermore these voltage regulation components, VRMS and the like should have adequate cooling. Usually a heat sink over them is important. On Intel you're going to want a highly rated Z or X Chip set board (Z77, 87,97 or X79,99 on the Socket 2011 and 2011-3 based boards). AMD you want a good AMD 970 board as a minimum for the six core CPUs and below and a good 990FX board for 8 core CPUs as they draw more power.

Thirdly is cooling. Overclocking your CPU makes it produce more heat. A stock cooler that comes with your CPU isn't good enough. A CM Hyper 212 Evo is okay for moderate overclocks (Say 200-300Mhz OCs) but better cooling say a Noctua NHU-14S is rated for more extreme overclocks. You can also look at watercolor in terms of all in one solutions or custom loops. Single radiator 120 and 140mm AIO water cooling units are usually more expensive and perform about the same as good high end air cooling units from say Noctua or Phanteks. 240MM and 280mm solutions like the Corsair H100i and NZXT Kraken X60 (I own a Kraken) will do even better but are more expensive. Proper case ventilation is important as well. Your motherboard will get hot and that heat needs to go somewhere too. Lower temperatures will allow you to overclock higher, keep your components running longer and will make sure you don't damage them.
Look at your specific part to see what its tJunction or max temperature is. I believe for Intel Haswell parts it is around 105C. At that point the CPU will turn off to save itself. However as temps get closer to that limit the CPU will start to throttle and run slower. You usually want to stay under 80ish degrees on Intel Haswell parts and under 60C on AMD FX parts.

CPU overclocking is done in the BIOS/UEFI. Their are Windows utilities, like Asus 4/5 Way Optimization, that will do it for you in Windows but these make changes to the BIOS/UEFI so you are really doing the same thing.

First thing you do is go in and disable any power saving features, like AMD Quiet'n'Cool for example.
Then you will begin to raise your multiplier to whatever number you want that will correspond to the desired final clock speed.
You will then stress test the CPU. (Run it at 100% for an extended period of time under a heavy workload). This will tell you if the overclock is stable. If it is stable it won't crash but if it isn't it will.
DO NOT USE PRIME 95. I don't care what people say. With modern CPUs it is a horrible benchmark. It causes Intel CPUs to immediately start throttling and won't give you a real view of how stable the OC is. On both AMD and Intel it can even cause the CPU to draw more voltage than you specified and cause damage. AIDA64 is a better option. Ask around I'm sure you can find some other solutions. Monitor your temps at all times during this process to be sure the CPU doesn't get too hot.

After the stress test completes (the longer you stress it for the more sure you can be of its stability. This can sometimes go on for hours or days depending how crazy you are.) You'll end up with two results.
A) There is no throttling or crash and your OC is stable.
or
B) The system crashes and you have an unstable overclock.

When B happens you go back into the BIOS/UEFI. At that point you begin to raise your CPU voltage or VCore. Usually expressed as a number say 1.200V. You want to raise it ever so slowly. I'm talking from 1.200 to say 1.205V. You want to try and achieve the lowest possible voltage you need for stability.
Then you stress test again.
You keep doing this until:
A) The system doesn't crash. Stable OC. Begin to lower the voltage until you get a crash again. Dial the voltage in somewhere in between there. Lower is better so long as it is stable.
B) Crash. Unstable OC. You go back and raise the voltage again. You keep doing this until it is stable.

There is also a third possibility. You reach a temperature that is too high or you have reached the voltage limit (you can't add any more power). At that point the multiplier you selected is too high. Lower your multiplier and final clock speed. Then do all the steps again.
Some chips can hit higher speeds with less voltage, some need more. No two parts overclock the same.
Look at guides that are specific to your CPU and other hardware. They are good guides and can tell you where to start. Remember though, these are GUIDES. Your CPU may be different.

Some programs you may wanna check out:
HWMonitor- Gives you good system and temperature information.
CPU-Z- CPU and RAM information
GPU-Z- GPU information, temperature readouts and clock speeds.
EVGA Precision X and MSI Afterburner- My favorite GPU overclocking programs.
AIDA64- Benchmarks and stress tests.
ASUS RealBench- Stress test that simulates realistic workloads.

I tried to be as thorough as possible. Please excuse the length. Overclocking isn't for noobies and can cause damage to your hardware if you don't know what you are doing. I'll be glad to assist you. The internet is your friend and you can find good info about overclocking your system.
Please post your specific configuration (Case, MOBO, CPU, CPU Cooler, GPU, RAM, PSU, HDD/SDD) Everything. It will make helping you or giving you a good starting place easier.

[Balubish]

A very nice review and very detailed German.
Side note too this awesome and detailed review I did use for example Asus EVO Turbo software from Asus Suite. Without that it would be much harder to do. It have in general two OC values. Fast and Extreme. Fast is basicly just changing it a few 100MHz by default settings. Extreme by the other hand is different.
First EVO is restarting the PC and wait 1 minute before first starting the Auto OC. First up is the multiplier. And first it raise the multiplier one step, from say on mine 35 to 36. The the software benchmark it and see if it is stable for about 15seconds. Then 37-38-39 until the program crash it will do this. Thats when u have come to the maximum safe temps and voltage. It's fine That its crashing, its a safety built in thats why it crashes and turn the parts off instead of breaking them. After restarting the software still wait another minute before continue the OC. This time its time to OC the Base Clock. Mostly it doesnt go that far atleast not on my Intel. So 35x100MHz is 3.5GHz stock speed on mine. Without this software it would be alot harder for me to OC. But think most new Motherboards with UEFI Bios have similar software.

And 1st rule that kreiger said. Have a stock cooler, dont even think about OC with that.
I can show you how my Extreme OC looks like in a system as an example.
Keep in mind these settings cant be used by everybody, it really depends on what parts and software versions you have and it is an extreme OC.


FSB/ Base Clock as you can see is at 101.4MHz and x48 times gives me 4.865GHz. 40% faster CPU than stock.
Tip: If you gonna build your own pc, lookup the parts ur planning to buy and look at reviews etc. The mainboard and CPU I looked alot at YouTube clips to see how proffesionals explained all the stuff you might need to know. Asus have a really smart guy explaining every step on thier software for how to OC etc with their stuff. Look for stuff like that.

And I do agree with Kreiger on Prime 95. Personally I like to test if the CPU OC with Cinebench, its a free test program that bench the CPU rendering a picture. So for example if you use a auto OC it most likely will set very high voltage on it. With Cinebench you can lower the voltage a bit and then run the CPU benchmark until the program crashes, then you have to go back to the voltage you had before. Same way if you OC manually. Go small steps. And never OC with stock coolers. They are crap both AMD and Intel, they know this but they send them with the CPU's just so that ppl get a cooler in general. Not everybody buy custom coolers or OC.

[UncleTestes]

Mother of Jebus, I didn't expect that much. Nevertheless, endless thanks for the time and effort you put into your response and I will definitely come back to it as a starting point for OCing if I choose to do it in the future. I learned a lot. Didn't know you could overclock RAM.

[Balubish]

EVGA GTX 780 Hydro Copper Performance Max Graphics settings at 1920x1080p with FPS counter.

Bioshock Infinite

Crysis 3

[StarYoshi]

Please feel free to ask me any PC hardware questions anytime - I've built and worked on computers for over a decade. (I'm also the GPU editor for overclock.net )

[Balubish]

Please feel free to ask me any PC hardware questions anytime - I've built and worked on computers for over a decade. (I'm also the GPU editor for overclock.net )

To late, had to learn all the hard way

[StarYoshi]

Please feel free to ask me any PC hardware questions anytime - I've built and worked on computers for over a decade. (I'm also the GPU editor for overclock.net )

To late, had to learn all the hard way

Sometimes that's the best way

[Balubish]

I havent OC stuff so long but can someone explain this maybe? I got lower score with higher OC on the graphics card but 200Mhz lower clock on the CPU. Does it do that much really with lower CPU clock?
Its 3D mark and are designed for mostly 3D rendering or am I wrong about that?

Before Score: Now Score:
Firestrike 9915 Firestrike : 8884
Sky Diver 26755 Sky Diver : 24266
Cloudgate 28371 Cloudgate : 27757
Ice Storm 180263 Ice Storm : 173108

[DerKrieger105]

I havent OC stuff so long but can someone explain this maybe? I got lower score with higher OC on the graphics card but 200Mhz lower clock on the CPU. Does it do that much really with lower CPU clock?
Its 3D mark and are designed for mostly 3D rendering or am I wrong about that?

Before Score: Now Score:
Firestrike 9915 Firestrike : 8884
Sky Diver 26755 Sky Diver : 24266
Cloudgate 28371 Cloudgate : 27757
Ice Storm 180263 Ice Storm : 173108

Well, CPU speed is an important factor no matter what you are doing but I wouldn't expect it to lower it that much. You're higher GPU OC may be a little unstabel and be throwing off errors that are hurting performance. Lower the GPU OC and retest.

[Balubish]

Thanks man. It actually was 2 factors. Voltage and to much OC. Weird, it was stable but must have been trottleing.
I didnt notice and problems gaming and have worked fine. Core OC +165Mhz and Mem OC +0Mhz.
So now I lowered the voltage from 1.312v (Max) to 1.287v. And just lowering the voltage helped with the same clock. But I tweaked more with it and
lowered the core clock to +135Mhz instead and +80Mhz on the memory and got better results. And mem for my card doesnt help that much and +60-80Mhz
seems to be the sweet spot, hmm. Read so much about ppl OC the mem 1Ghz and more.
Well Im happy anyways and thanks for the tip Krieger and will test some other major different settings and see how it goes.

EditI did test changing the CPU clock and tested between 4.4Ghz and 4.8Ghz and actually was few 100 points on firestrike, so the CPU actually do alot too.

[UncleTestes]

Apologies in advance if this doesn't go here, but I have a little trouble with a gaming mouse I just bought.

I paid $35 for a Utechsmart Venus 1000-16400 DPI gaming mouse. I mainly bought it because of the 12 buttons on the side. The last mouse I had only had 2 mouse buttons, and in TF2 I used them to change my FOV on the fly, with the commands "bind mouse4 fov_desired 75" and "bind mouse5 fov_desired 90". But this new mouse's side buttons seem only to duplicate the top row of keyboard keys. Here, I'll press them for you in order:

1234567890+-

Is there a way to change it so that the buttons count as mouse buttons, like mouse5 or mouse11, etc? The mouse came with some driver software but it allows for reprogramming of every button except for the side buttons. (Hell, you can even turn the DPI buttons into something else. The damn thing has a built-in macro editor but can't reprogram side buttons.)

[Balubish]

Still holding up. First Windows 10 benchmark. Sadly I get more score on the CPU thanks to the OC than the GPU. I thought GTX 780 would have some power, combined yeah, alone average.

Anyone know other Windows 10 3D benchmarks? Cause Heaven and Valley doesnt work for some reason ??? Also a DX12 test that is free would be awesome if someone had a tip on that...

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/10153784?

[Balubish]

Do you even Sim?

[L0wsound]

Do you even Sim?

Can you imagine how quickly that room would warm up? Or how much radiation that chair receives..

[Balubish]

So for you who dont know I have spent $2000 bucks on my PC this year and this monday I added 1100 to that total. New mobo, CPU and Ram. Main reason render time.

So I managed to get the new CPU to 4.4GHz on each core. Problem is I miss an extra power connector from the PSU so I might melt that cable if im not careful that are plugged in now.
X99 aquire aparently both 8pin+4pin CPU power and one 8pin is 75watts, and with the OC the CPU draws around 120watts, oops. Max TDP is 140Watt.

But to show off some nice benchmarks how it perform. And hopefully now render time will go down alot. I have done some test renders but but are not done yet in testing, I spent like 4-5 hours yesterday just trying to figure out whats best OC, also dialing up the Ram to 3200Mhz and in quadchannel was bit new to me so that took like 1,5 hours until i figured it out aswell. Bios settings you can do on this platform is insane really.

Still trying to figure out with actually a reddit post aswell what high end CPU's can take as voltage if its the same or if its higher, cause the damn meter is possible to drag up all the way up to 2.8Volts and stock is around 1.15volts.

So now to some benchmarks:
With an OC of 4.4Ghz on all cores and stock GPU this was the result in 3D Mark Firestrike.
And to go from 4cores 4threads at 4.6Ghz to 6cores 12threads at 4.4 i gained atleast in Firestrike 2000more overall points. And around 6000 more points in physics. So if you love games like Diablo, StarCraft I guess I would benefit alot. I will test that for sure, not that I needed faster though cause im fine at 60fps on those games anyways.


CPU-Z Benchmark with same settings.


So with a nice OC this chip is very capable. But you will need a really good cooling. On some cores I hit just above +70C° at 4.4-4.5GHz on some cores. 160F° for you who dont understand normal temps
The short time I have spent so far test render videos in 4K @ 60fps it still takes time for sure, and between stock 3.4Ghz and 4.4Ghz is massive speed boost as you can see in the CPU benchmark compared to stock when it comes to solve calculation. The render speed to the drive is basicly 5-10MB/s which is insane. So at stock clocks 60fps video at 4K that are 30min long at stock clocks take around double the length of the clip to render. At 4.4Ghz though it takes just a little more than the clip length and it depends on what bitrate your rendering at.

Youtube for some reason want you to upload 50mbit/s videos at 4K but I try to stay around 18-20Mbit which still makes the file massive I think but still alot of compression with still pretty nice quality.
Im still learning in this area. I tried render a 30fps 2560x1440p video and it basicly rendered it just a bit shorter time than the clip length itself, pretty impressive.

So this is what you get for 1100bucks in premiere pro Sadly its stupid you need to spend that money to render a damn video in a reasonable time though.
But beeing a massive nerd as i like to spend money on something I enjoy and have as a hobby.

Hope this is interesting to some how a pretty high end CPU effects ur PC. I will do some gaming benchmarks on my channel aswell. But when it comes to most games higher CPU speed is worth more actually.
And overall there is quite alot for me to learn about this newer platform and jumping from a 2012 motherboard. For example I tried ASUS Rog Ram Cache that allows you to run for a certain amount of RAM
as a cache for that drive you choose and it will learn wich programs you use most on C: for example that is an SSD, I had around 350mb/s read/write i think. With with ram cache I got 7000-8000MB/s read/write speed using a 2GB sized file. Im trying to see if I can use it for video editing but right now I havent seen any difference and need to do some more testing. But that speed is fucking crazy.

And if someone knows anything about Premiere Pro, why dont I see any difference in either prioritizing mem or performance, non of them do any noticable difference to render time, atleast not what i've seen so far.

[Balubish]

So I thought my PSU died on me the other day. It was not the problem. After installing a new one yesterday I learned that.
I have never had this issue over my 20 years or so PC background, but when i buy high-end products it fucking happens.
Keep in mind the PC made Sudoku by itself. I never turn off my PC's and it have been running fine since October and when I got home the other day it was dead.



You would think that higher end prices and products would be better in both performance and quality right, well I got buttfucked on that thought.'
So after installing the new PSU the PC was still stuck in Pre-Post loop, starting up for less than a second and then turned off right away,
so fast not even the fans have the time to spin up to max rpm. So for the first time in a very long time I had to open the fucking manual, Odin that pissed me off.
X99 platform is new to me so I kinda had too. So on higher end motherboards you usually nowadays have a Q-code display such as this picture.



The problem is only shows whats wrong "if" the PC is still alive and running, FUCK! Back to the faulty checkup again.
I tested my second thing that never happened to me but had to check it just because its a common thing for others, remove the ram sticks and tried different orders.

WTF! Problem still there!!

Back to the fucking manual. Found a clear mem pin you can short out to make it clear the bios mem "I think", and yes I did also try remove the MB battery couple of times.

Still no luck, so went to bed reading one of few books in bed for about 5min, the manual that is, found the "Mem OK" button. Fuck it, I have tried everything else.
Tada, a new fucking light flashes when I try to start the PC, there was a row of 4leds by the 24Pin power cable, CPU, DRAM, VGA & Boot Device LED. The top one was flashing, CPU issue! FUCK!

So what i think is, the CPU self died while idle in windows while I was at work? Seriously, WTF!

So thats where im at today, gonna call the ppl I bought in a few hours when the support opens to see what to do, I assume its an RMA :/

[Thirty-Two Ws]

Do you have a warranty on it?

[Balubish]

Do you have a warranty on it?

Yeah its only a few months old. I ordered the stuff October 31st. So should be solid. Gonna return it to the company that i bought it from, all of it so they can double check whats broken.
Im guessing the CPU, but the weird thing is how the fuck it broke, been running fine for couple of months and suddenly it dies at idle in Windows while i was at work?!?!
Hopefully it doesnt take to long, been weird not having PC for the whole week, I might setup the old MB open on the desk just to have something atleast
And as I told them, first time this happened to me over 20 years of PC hardware. But I did find some others have had similar problems with X99 weirdly enough.
But dont know if the CPU's or MB that is the problem in general.

So after assembly yesterday, I have to drain the loop again and fucking take the shit out and then when I get the parts again do the same thing, grrr.

[Insipid]

Balu,
You have the EVGA 1080 FTW right?
Did you do the bios update and the thermal pad mod?
Or did you water cool it?
The stock cards were burning up like crazy.

http://www.evga.com/thermalmod/
http://www.pcworld.com/article/3138048/components-graphics/evga-battles-gtx-10-series-overheating-with-faster-fan-speeds-free-thermal-pads.html

The bios update alone dropped my temps from about 70°c to about <60°c when playing DOOM 2016.
Haven't got around to putting the thermal pads on yet, I've been lazy.

[Balubish]

Balu,
You have the EVGA 1080 FTW right?
Did you do the bios update and the thermal pad mod?
Or did you water cool it?
The stock cards were burning up like crazy.

http://www.evga.com/thermalmod/
http://www.pcworld.com/article/3138048/components-graphics/evga-battles-gtx-10-series-overheating-with-faster-fan-speeds-free-thermal-pads.html

The bios update alone dropped my temps from about 70°c to about <60°c when playing DOOM 2016.
Haven't got around to putting the thermal pads on yet, I've been lazy.

Yes I have the 1080 FTW, and no i did not do the Bios update or order the thermal pad mods. I run on an aggressive fan profile and will later watercool it so both problems will be gone.
Im waiting on money for it though, im not sure if Im going with the FTW Waterblock from EVGA or EK waterblock though.
The bios update is for cranking up the fans just like my agressive profile anyways. It runs super hot on stock settings. I still reach 70C° with max fan speed in Overwatch so yeah they run hot as hell. And I refuse to trottle down under 2Ghz

Hehe your lazy yes if you have seen my build you would understand why I didnt even care. First I have to empty the loop and remove the pump fittings cause they were just infront of the card so couldnt get the card out even without doing those steps lol. Otherwise i might have done the thermal pad thing. But as said waterblock will remove both issues cause pads are included for the VRM's and rest on the block and fan, well no fans on waterblocks

And last night I picked all the shit out again, dropped the RAM, CPU and MB back to the guys i bought it from for testing and possible RMA. So the only thing i have left is an empty case and my 1080. But will probably today assemble the old PC on the desk so I can atleast surf and stuff.

How it looked when I was done putting in the new PSU and still broken.


So if im gonna go with anther 1080 I dont really know where to put the pump lol.
Such a tight case but looks awesome i think and still manage to have that NexXxos Monsta rad inside the case with push pull config.