Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby Balubish » Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:50 am

Really nice All-In-One watercooling. And yes, I can agree cause I have noiseblocker fans aswell, best rad fans you can buy.

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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby Balubish » Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:55 pm

So I made a video the other day showing off Mayhems Aurora Silver Booster. If you have seen my last watercooling build video you seen when I've used the Aurora before.
Mayhems Aurora makes you see the waterflow in reservoir, cooling blocks and hoses for example, and it looks so damn cool. 8-)
They sell a few premixed ones. But with Silver Booster you can basicly add the effect to your own mixed color using for example Mayhems dyes.
I have UV pink in this one just to make a test. I will do few more colors and test just to see how it looks.

If you gonna try this urself, read the notice and check their steps for best result. And it will differ depending on how ur loop is routed aswell.
Mine is actually to restricted as it is so will probably remove my newest small radiator for the other tests.

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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby L0wsound » Wed Feb 10, 2016 3:40 am

That's pretty rad :lol:

I wonder if it's actual Silver in it - would make sense for heat transfer.
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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby Balubish » Sun May 29, 2016 7:43 am

So I have my eye on my new GPU so this will be my next baby when I get my damn tax return and upgrade.

I was thinking of getting a regular card and install the block myself but I dont see the point cause this baby looks good already and preinstalled and higher stock OC than the others probably.
One key different that is also good is that if the card breaks its easier to get insurance cause I havent installed the block. But usually nothing happens.
But its always a good thing to be on the safe side I guess. And you have dual 8 connectors when stock GTX 1080 only has one 8 pin, which means more steady power and might actually be able
to OC even higher than stock. Keep in mind the Founders Edition with one 8 pin is able to OC without additional voltage which is locked on that all the way up to 2.1GHz and around 11GHz on the mem.

Not sure if it will be OC more with dual 8 pins but I hope for sure :) The best would be around 2.4-2.5GHz than im solid for many years.

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Getting into the 4K master race and been testing some old games aswell OC the shit out of my old card.
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It has been a good gaming friend for a couple of years now and beeing the nerd I am I pre bought my 4K monitor and have been testing alot of games in 4K.
This baby manage to have a good stable OC at 1228MHz on the core and not so much on the mem though. But I still manage to OC enough to keep me above 30FPS in 4K on high settings on GTA V
and man does it look good. All games do. 4K era is here when you can have one card and hit 60fps on max settings.

Problem before were you needed like 2x$1000 dollar cards to keep it that high. And I have tested what games and whatnot I cant play at 4K since I got the monitor last week.
And yeah, theres no getting back now. I knew 4K would make it look more crispy and dont think it was this much. For example I tested an old racing game yesterday called Flatout Carnage.
Was hitting 100FPS @ 4K max settings with this GTX 780 and other games I also can play around that with max settings is Star Craft2, Diablo 3, TF2, Skyrim and so on.

Yes older games look more crispy aswell. As I noticed when I tried Flatout I could see leaves on the trees in distance while driving and before its more a blur and you know its leaves.
Sure some textures looks bad no argue there and on 4K you see them even more but its not enough to bother me.

I will do a 4K montage video of different things on my channel later but for now I cant, I cant record 4K on the card highest it can manage is 30fps at 1440p.
New card on the other hand will be able to record 4K and I hope 60fps with the new codec cooming out H.265. Right now I only managed to take some pictures in 4K with fraps while ingame.
Like this one in GTA V at medium settings, yes Medium It will even look better when I can play it on max. Got Damn!

Reason I only can play at Medium is mainly VRam, its only 3GB on the card
and at 4K that shit runs out fast and also if you exceed the mem in some games that require more the FPS dips alooot.
For example I cant even test play Dark Souls3 on 4K cause even on the lowest possible setting I get 16fps which is fucking terrible
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Bonus, yes this you probably recognized. The animations in 4K in SC2 is rendered at 60fps and looks like a frikking animated movie which is insame.
This picture is from recording it at 1440p 30Fps which is the max for now.
Still looks pretty good even though its half resolution in the video feed.
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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby Balubish » Wed Jun 15, 2016 9:52 am

What the video title says.

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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby Balubish » Tue Jul 12, 2016 3:04 am

So a small update on some pre-planning and rebuild on my PC for you guys that are into watercooling.

First off my old case is from 2012 I think and is not even close to be super good for watercooling in the start and why I have my fatass 240 rad outisde ontop of the case.
Personally i dont mind it at all and i think it looks kinda beefy, but thats it, one hole in the case so cant get a bit cooler water than that, even though its 80mm thick I still want to add another cooler.

With this massive cooler i now still manage to reach 60C° on the GPU and CPU well I can make it melt if I want too but also want to put down temps on that thanks to the hi OC.
Only way to solve it a I feel is the rad space and i have non in this case i have.

Here below you have the inside of the pre-ordered case (Not my stuff inside cause I dont have the case yet), instead of drives I can fit my 240x80mm rad in the front as intake and maybe run push/pull fans on it that will make the width inwards 86mm+50mm with the fans. That rad is the blue lines.

On the top of the case i plan buying another rad same fatass "monsta" version 86mm thick but this is wider and will get a 280 rad so I can use 2x140mm fans. Problem with the case though is that its beveled so I need to put both fans and rad outside of the case ontop of it but it will look cool as hell anyway, or as I want it too. There i have 2 choices really how to connect that up. Either i can parallel config the the rads
cause each rad has 3 inlet and 3 outlet ports so I could either the way I added the top rad just drill 2 holes and go parallel into the rad below in the front. Or instead of cutting up the case i can switch it and have it
backwards with fittings going outside of the case down and in through the PCI E lanes. Easier, less mess but more hoses/tubing required to connect that up. Im gonna have to think about how I will route that up.
I dont have the rad or the case yet so its no worries on that so far :) But I will have better and lower temps overall. So conclusion, 2x120mm fans or 4x120mm if i do push pull in front as intake fans.
As outtake i will have a single 120mm in the back, or seal that shit up with custom plate cause its not really needed to be hounest. And top of the case I will have atleast 2x140fans sucking out hot air and will be able to run those at slower speed which means less noise and still keep good airflow.

Grey lines is just a planning btw for airfilter on the inside just to collect dust and make it less more often to get unasemble it less often to easier remove dust in the rad.
The front of the case have filter both in the top and the bottom were the air get into the case so i dont have to bother about that part, but still some small particles will get through.

So what do you guys think of my plan? Will give me more cooling? Size of the new rad will add 324 x 144 x 86mm cooling area. O yeah, these rads have a empty plug in the bottom so I can easily add a empty valve in the bottom which will make it super easy to empty and change fluid that way through the bottom compartment.

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Side planning depending on how much space I have in the case im not sure how or where I will fit the pump and reservoir yet, I might actually hang it horisontel on the top of the case or the bottom plate above the PSU. But yeah this case is much better for watercooling in general and you got that PSU cover area to hide stuff like a million miles of cables.

So I also got a modding idea to cover the pretty ugly motherboard. Doing my own custom MB cover in white plexi glass. The case I bought is white and black and rads and inside are black. So I thought why not make my own shroud for the the MB hiding all the shit that arent important, unusude PCI lanes etc. So this is kinda my idea like this guy did. But much simpler ofcourse.

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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby L0wsound » Tue Jul 12, 2016 8:55 am

My old mobo had something similar. I think it'd look pretty slick if you do it right..
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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby Balubish » Tue Jul 12, 2016 9:23 am

L0wsound wrote:My old mobo had something similar. I think it'd look pretty slick if you do it right..


I probably gonna be lazy "if" i do it and just cut out a L shape covering the lower part of the MB if i do it. Take to much time to make all the certain cutouts.
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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby Balubish » Wed Jul 20, 2016 2:43 am

So this is my latest update since yesterday, took me around 5 hours to remove the parts from the old case and saw that this case overall is like a 6th/7th smaller than my old one which I didnt know.
I thought Midi towers were a standard. Little did I know. But starting to look badass after 5 hours of work, yes, still work to do on it. Got some kinks and lights to figure out.
Was so worried the pump had died cause it didnt start on the new build, found that I had a faulty power connector, some lights arent working either so have to fix that shit aswell.

I kinda like the look of the res hanging on the top horisontal but I might need to change that setup :/ Reason for that are that im getting to much vaccum in the tubes so the pump basicly suck the inside of the tubewalls together and will fuck with flowrate. But I benched it in Cinebench so 100% load @ 4.7GHz and hit 71C° so thats so different not having a GPU in ur loop tempwise. Before I hit like 85-90C°.

Next plan is when i get my card which is a regular fan GPU that blows out the hot air in the case. Im gonna check for temps on the GPU when I install it and see how good temps are, im worried I dont have enough airflow. Right now I only have 3 fans, but damn is it silent. I barely hear its on unless im sitting right next to it. Old case i had 8fans installed, got right now atleast alot of spare fans ;)

So in about a month the waterblock will release for the card so will add custom one to that and then get another 86mm thick radiator above the case, sure it wont look as clean but I actually dont mind having a rad above the case, its airflow up there anyways so rather use the cooling space anyways. Its gonna be pretty good anyways, white and black build hardware and some accents.

So this is how the state of the build is right now, will add more info over time, this is just 2 pics i took just when I managed to fill the loop and start it up in windows.
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Re: Watercooling PC... Around $650 in parts Edit= $800

Postby L0wsound » Wed Jul 20, 2016 7:58 am

I think we're gonna need a shot of the inside to criticize your cable management :D
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