CR33D wrote:Do you game 1440p or 120+hz? I don't know how worth custom loops are on just 1080p/60hz
Im just adding this for your comment Cr33d and others to show how hard it is to come up at 120+fps at 1920x1080p on certain games if you are a graphics fr34k like me Note that I spent $700 dollars on a GPU. But I do think I will upgrade to a 1440p monitor next year with G-Sync, maybe If not 4K and play on lower detail settings in games, not sure.
Here is Crysis 3 with maxed out settings and an FPS counter at 1920x1080p, not that impressive really.
And just to give an comparisson how the power of the GPU is different between game engines and graphics quality. Here is Bioshock Infinite maxed out with alot better performance. I can say this, the only game I had those frames on last years have been TF2 but still Bioshock gave me an headache for some reason.
So a little update on some things. As many of you already know I bought a GPU only block for my Gigabyte R9 280X. And Gigabyte those fuckers made me do it "basicly" cause the have a custom pcb. So full cover waterblocks dont fit those so if you planning on making a watercooling loop keep in mind what brand and card you have. I had the card before I started with the loop so that is kinda why I had it and otherwise I could plan it better. So this is how far I have come yet on my "planning" So hopefully this will be informative to ppl that have Gigabyte cards. Will test it with the fans mounted on day in the future and see how it works. Just gotta buy some more mem chip cooling.
And here I tested some Mayhems dyes just to how it looks with a real black light. What color would you choose? I did go poison green this time to see how it looks.
Example pic: and the hoses are UV blue reactive so need to buy new one of those to get that green there too. I did go with blue theme so it was on purpose but to test other colors I gotta switch them to clear.
Did reroute the hoses some and made a empty part in the bottom instead and will upload a video of that when I mess around with that too.
Testing Pink Dye now. This is basicly one of the perks of watercooling that I think is cool. You can in an easy way change ur PC looks with just changing the color of the loop. Im not a pro modder and this is the most I've modded a case in general but this is a + with watercooling in my opinion. Let me know what you think about this scheme. Also its hard photo it with a mobile "Crap" camera looks better in real life. And took 2 flushes of the system completely to get the most of that green stuff out, damn that shit get stuck everywere. Lesson to myself, Green = alot of flushing water, 2-3 times completely.
I've ordered some new fans yesterday evening, watched alot of videos with CM JetFlo fans. 1st part why I want them is they have high pressure, so perfect for radiator. 2nd part they look awesome. 3rd part is they have a good rpm speed range between 800-2200rpm so I can set them up for, looks/light/sound in my pc. I have tested some different fans over time. Arctic/Corsair/Antec/Lepa/Noise Blocker. The Arctic ones are silent but no pressure. Corsair have pressure and high airflow but on certain speed they sound like small chainsaw, I think its because they have a big engine and different bearing. So the quality on them are great and probably will go for ever but to loud for my taste. Antec have no pressure but also silent and are only good as a case fan or in the case to move some air around or as a passive intake fan. Same is for the Arctic ones. I have used them for suction on top of the radiator I guess they worked for that but didnt have the pressure like for example the Corsair ones have. So hopefully these from Cooler Master will deliver. I have NB-E loop as pull now and they are great so my plan is switching them to the top as suction and the JetFlo's as push to both deliver good pressure through the rad and aslo so nice ambient light into the case.
Example video how they look in action on full speed and lower.
My next idea I got today. Modding the case so I can have a second monster rad. Cause? Why not! I looked around on the net for a modded Antec P280 case as I have and coulnt find any major mods for that. I both want one cooler cause the OC CPU and GPU is cooled enough but I still think I can push down the temps with another rad. The Monsta rad I have is a 240mm and I will if I succeed i hope I can fit another one in the front of the case. Im new at modding cases and Im kinda getting intersted about the idea instead of buying a new case.
So this is an old pic on the case, but you have the drive cages and 5.25" in the top. The part where the drive cages are I use 3pcs 3.5" drives and on the top of that part 2pcs SSD's. I tested on my lunchbreak if the drive holder are switchable and they were, so I can turn the whole cage upside down and I can still use them. So I can do this 2 ways as I see it cause I really want to keep some of them. In front of the case its 2 case fans putting some fresh air into the case with a fan filter so I know the space is right for another Monsta rad in the front "if" i remove the drive trays. But I still want to keep them for my drives. So the options I have is either turn the whole shit upside down in case and remove the 5.25" trays completly to get the vertikal space I need for a second rad. I have a broken DVD-RW in it, its not even plugged in. So all that space isnt used for anything. And I have an external DVD writer I can take out when I need to install Windows or whatever, not often in any case though . Second thing I can do is just cut the whole drive bay out and make a completly custom cage that fits all my drives and a second rad. And I have a chunk of clear 5mm acrylic window left as I have used as a case window. I could just cut out the parts I need 4 walls, glue some small bracket sliders for the drives so they have thier space in the top anyways into it and also make a fan grill for the drives when they are in the top just to suck out the HDD's heat out of there and 2 fan big hole in the bottom for the rad. So I will strip the front down after work to look more how to do it
So here is a good example how it can look and how little space I actually need or the drives in general. And acrylic is fairly easy to work with. So I can make the mounting for the drives and the rad in 2 seperate pieces too. Mount the drive part in the top with fan and make a box or what the easiest way to make some kind of holding spot for the rad and some fans in the bottom part.
Or I could just order this cage for the drives and im done with that and just have to do the rad thing by myself
When I got kicked from casual... Broseph Stalin : why the fuck would you kick him Rehvii : why did u kick him? Rehvii : dumbasses Rehvii : now we are going to get fucked Broseph Stalin : he was literally the best engie I've seen in a valve server ever
And I just uploaded a new video how air bubbles can form in a waterloop. Basicly this isnt that normal I think, but I have the pump on the slowest speed and its really tricky to fill the whole radiator with water even on the highest speed. And now and then while gaming some air gets lose and going down to the reservoir, but even though its an swirl wall between inlet and outlet the air is going around it and down the vacuum basicly getting sucked down towards the pump again. And thats because of steady flow rate and low flow rate of water. If I ramp the pump up the bubble will be sucked down to the pump and then back to the radiator.
So here is a quite big air bubble in my system that grows over time.
So this is the end for the Gigabyte R9 280X project. Core only block and stock fans to cool the Vram and power delivery.
If you dont want to see the video of me testing this out and steps I made I will do a short conclusion here.
I had 10 mem chip cooling blocks, 12 memchips on the card, so 2 is left out, but didnt matter. In general the build works fine and a cool core. I maxed out at 48c degrees on the core. So very usefull, for games like TF2 that dont take that much horsepower your fine running the fans at around 50% and then its basicly silent. But for games like Far Cry 4 that really strangle the GPU in performance I felt more safe running it at around 70-75% fanspeed cause the power delivery gets really hot. I guess this problem can be solved buying a VRM cooler and then just have fan/fans running slow cooling the mem chips. But im done with this and might use the card for another time in a HTPC or something.
If its the only solution and dont have a full cover block for your card, go for it, you will get a cooler system and hopefully more silent. But I do recommend a full cover block if you can choose it.
Nextup is a video I made yesterday with my own way of parallel watercooling loop, and it works weirdly enough.
Parallel cooling config. It might be the first one made like this, I tried to look up on the net if it actually works.
Usally it looks like on the left picture, but I have out and in on the same side, I was unsure if it would work but it actually do really well. I only had to crank up the pump speed a bit to get higher flow rate. But other than that the temps acually seems cooler. Cause the cold water from the radiator goes to both the CPU and GPU at the same time. Before I had it going to the CPU first then down to the GPU, so it heats up a little bit before on the CPU. It technicly doesnt matter, but Im all for lower temps. And temp wise it makes sense really.
Re-routing video, took around 28min to do it, switch cards and switch fittings and hoses, and it did require 2 more fittings than before.
Im adding this pic cause for some reason the darker ones in the end got fucked up after I compressed the video. :S